India. China. The two behemoths of Asia share a long, contested border through the Himalayas. After a war in the 1960s and deadly border conflicts that continued all up until the present day, it remains impossible to cross between the two countries by land.

I had decided to visit Sikkim, one of India's most unique states in both shape and in culture. The people arguably have more in common with neighboring Nepal than they do the rest of India. But Sikkim also shares a closed border with Tibet, and you'll frequently see military trucks driving through the area.

My first stop was Gangtok, a capital that barely feels like India. It's a place rarely visited by foreigners. That is, except for one group, who crossed over from Tibet a long time ago..


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