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Tweed Guide - How To Wear Harris Tweeds Donegal Cheviot Saxony...

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Gentlemans Gazette

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Tweed began as a handwoven fabric that was made on looms. The cloth was rough and thick and coarse. And the colors were earthy because they were inspired by nature.

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00:00 Introduction

00:42 The Origin of Tweed Name
Some people claim, it comes from the river tweed, which is in Scotland. Supposedly the cloth was first woven in the Tweed Valley. Other people claim, tweed is a twist of the Scottish word tweel.

Now, tweed is usually quite heavy and warm. But believe it or not, it used to be the highperformance fabric of its time. The English gentry was quick to adopt tweed as the preferred fabric for golfing, hunting or fishing under country estates.

Today, It is rarely used for sport activities anymore because it is quite insulating and even though wool is quite absorbent when it comes to sweat it is simply too warm for most people.

02:22 Tweed Named After Varieties of Sheep

Cheviot Tweed
Cheviot is a breed of white faced sheep that were first kept in a cheviot hills in Northumberland near the Scottish border. Generally, it is a larger and rougher type of tweed. It is quite coarse to the touch, such as this one.

Shetland Tweed
The opposite of cheviot in the sense that it is much softer, it is finer and usually have a looser weave.

03:35 Geographicallynamed Tweeds

Donegal Tweed
The name of Donegal is derived from the Irish county of Donegal and the characteristic is a tweed with knobs as you can see here. Rather than having a plain fabric, you see like orange or red, gray speckle, sometimes you have pink or green or something very outlandish but overall it creates a very soft look.

Saxony tweed
In the middle ages, it was forbidden for the Christian areas of Spain to export sheep.Generally, it is made from a Merino wool today and it is another wonderful sport coat or a jacket fabric.

05:46 Functionallynamed Tweeds

Gamekeeper Tweed
The heavier fabric usually starting at 700g, about 24 oz. It is made for cold weathers, so it is quite insulating and hard wearing. It really got its name from the people who use it outside all day in cold harsh conditions.

Sporting Tweeds or Hunting Tweeds
Developed specifically for hunting and the idea was that one hand, that the colors are chosen so you blend in with the environment. On the other hand, a hunting tweed jacket has a shoulder patch just like this one, so you could easily hold your rifle and it wouldn’t wear out your shoulder fabric so quickly.

Thornproof Tweed
Made of twoply wool yarns which are supposed to be woven tightly and as a consequence if you go through a thorn it may poke through, but is then selfrepairing.

Supasax is a Saxony tweed used to be made by Bladen. It had been discontinued for a while. I think it is back now, though I really prefer the old stuff because it has a special color depth and wonderful patterns.

07:27 TWEED PATTERNS

Plain twill weave tweed. It has these ridges that are quite wide they can be a little finer, but this is typical for a plain twill weave.

Overcheck twill. It’s still a twill weave but not as pronounced as the one you can see here, but it has this overcheck.

Herringbone. Herringbone is named that way because it’s supposed to resemble fish bones. Basically, a herringbone is a twill weave, so it’s the same twill weave you can see here but the rows are adjusted to go up and down right next to each other giving you this herringbone pattern.

Barleycorn. it’s called that way because upon closer inspection it resembles a kernel of barley.

How do you actually wear a tweed? It's particularly well suited for fall, winter outfits, because otherwise, you simply overheat.

When not to wear tweed? If you are in a traditional white collar environment, tweed is not the fabric to wear. Stay away from formal events, especially evening events.


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