This pipe wrench was made by the Lawson Manufacturing Company in Cleveland, Ohio, USA. This design was patented on December 14th, 1920 under patent number US1362014AS13. This particular wrench was likely produced some time later, since the lower jaw insert is removeable and the original patent does not show a removeable jaw insert. My neighbor gave this wrench to me to restore and I gave it back to him as a gift!

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Timestamps:

0:000:35 Overview
0:362:02 Electrolysis
2:032:52 Disassembly
2:535:48 Wire wheeling all parts
5:496:42 Hot bluing nut and ratchet
6:43:7:36 Cleaning up castings
7:378:59 Removing the jaw insert
9:009:35 Cleaning up the jaw insert
9:369:45 Cold bluing jaw insert
9:4610:06 Shootout at the Catalyst Restorations corral
10:0710:24 Cold bluing jaw insert
10:2511:21 Reinstalling the jaw insert and making new pins
11:22–12:24 Priming and Painting
12:32–13:27 Reassembly
13:28–13:42 Finishing touches
13:43–14:22 Reveal!
14:23–14:39 Before/After
14:40–15:03 Testing
15:04–15:14 Thanks for watching and please like, comment, and subscribe!



Restoration details and tips for restoring your own pipe wrench:

Disassembly is straightforward – the hardest part may be loosening the nut if it’s heavily rusted. In my case, I decided to dive right in with electrolysis instead of trying to loosen it with WD40. For a good DIY electrolysis setup like the one I use, check out this video:    • Infinite Rust Removal? DIY Electrolys...  . After disassembly, I wire wheeled every part to remove the remaining loose rust followed by some light grinding with a 120 grit flap disk. I like to use 120 grit because it’s not too aggressive. To remove the lower jaw insert I had to drill them out – many pipe wrenches have a pin that runs through the insert to secure it in place, but on this Lawson wrench it was two individual pins that “pinch” the insert in place. I made new pins out of some stainless steel rod stock I bought on Amazon. For hot bluing, heat the part to just around a cherry red color, then quench in an oil. I use used boiled linseed oil. Keep an eye on the temperature of the oil if you quench multiple parts – don’t let it get too hot.

For priming and painting, I used Rustoleum’s metal etching primer. After waiting at least a few days, I then painted the handle with Rustoluem’s Hammered silver and the head with Rustolem’s Stops Rust flat black. I like the flat black because it emulates the finish on the head that many pipe wrenches have today. For the Hammered paint, my technique is to apply one heavy coat on a flat surface. The paint needs a flat surface so the oils that create the textured, hammered look can spread out a bit before they dry. This means I had to paint the handle one half at a time with at least two days of drying time inbetween. It takes a while, but it’s worth the final look.



Some of the tools and equipment I used in this video:
Camera: https://amzn.to/3EpbgOh
4" Bench Vise: https://amzn.to/3EgbSGb
Dremel: https://amzn.to/3GeynMd
Bench grinder: https://amzn.to/3rzbLlk

Disclaimer: Catalyst Restorations may earn an affiliate commission when you buy through the links here. Commissions go towards future videos!



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