Mounting customer acquisition costs and a pressure to grow fast have made it hard to build a profitable DTC business. BoF deputy editor Brian Baskin and retail correspondent Cathaleen Chen join Lauren Sherman to analyse the past, present and future of the market.

Background:
About a decade ago, a number of flashy directtoconsumer brands peddling premium products and promising to cut out retail’s middlemen emerged on the scene. Quickly, names like Warby Parker, Allbirds and Glossier attracted investor attention with battle cries of disruption, setting off a DTC boom. They managed to raise hundreds of millions of dollars, and garner valuations in the billions of dollars. However, the market as a whole has largely failed to live up to skyhigh expectations. How does the model need to change?

“Over the last year or so, investors are looking around and saying ‘wait a minute, you told us you’d get big enough and the profits would come. Where are the profits?’” said BoF deputy editor Brian Baskin. “Consumers have also looked around and said, ‘ok, I got my Allbirds sneakers — what else you got for me?’”

Key Insights:

The pandemic exposed a huge flaw in the DTC model: scaling ultrafast without the support of multi brand retailers is tough — and often requires heavy spending on customer acquisition. . In both private and public markets right now, investors have little patience for brands that aren’t profitable.
Today, DTC brands are embracing other distribution channels in order to scale, or choosing to grow more slowly.
Growing a profitable DTC brand can be done with tight control over spending, scrappiness and smart marketing. AYR — a basics brand that started in 2014 as a Bonobos subsidiary and was later taken over independently by its cofounders — is on track to hit $60 million in sales, having only taken around $6 million in funding.


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