I will restore this rusty 0.5€ pocket knife back it's former glory. I found it from a flea market. The knife is very rusty but there is no major damage besides the pitting from the rust. I hope it's not rusted beyond restoration. I found this very interesting because before actually starting the disassembly I didn’t notice how the assembly was done and I thought it would be a nice project because the pins were hidden and I was curious how the covers of the handle were done, was it paint or something or something else. As usual, some detailed explanation of the processes can be found after the links.


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Tools used in this video:
Rust remover: https://www.mc51thebestrustremover.c...
Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je
Bending rotarytool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL
Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2

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Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6
Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu
2xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl
Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq
Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77
Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej

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Restoration playlist▶    • Tool restorations  




After figuring out how to the knife was put together, I tried to pull those tiny metal tabs back out to get the scales off but I didn’t have a tool that could have loosened the scales. I decided to see If I could pry it apart without ruining the scales. I broke out my old trusty prying chisel. The reason I use it is that it’s hard, sharp (the edge fits to very tight gaps) and the bevel usually helps when I need to take stuff apart. I don’t really have to pry anything I only need to push and the bevel will pull the pieces apart. After scales were off I used a Dremel to grind off the pins. Then all the metal parts were put into rust remover.

After the rust was removed I sanded the pitting off from the visible parts. No need to remove material from hidden parts if the pitting doesn’t affect the functionality of the item. For the scales I used the nickel plating system to prevent it from rusting again the same was done to the plates that housed the blade and the small clip at the end of the knife. After the parts came off from the liquid I rinsed them with water to remove the liquid because it’s acidic and could start dissolving the plating after the electricity is cut. The blade was fist sanded to 400 grits. And then hardened in oil. If I hardened it first the sanding would have been much more laborious. On the other hand because I use gas burner to heat the blade up the outer surface of the blade will burn and come off so polishing before hardening is also unnecessary. After hardening the blade it was tempered in a n oven for couple of ours. This makes it less brittle.

The plastic covers on the scales were damaged and I wasn’t a big fan of the design so I decided to try adding a layer of veneer on the scales. I diluted some epoxy with thinner to allow me to apply only a very thin layer. If there was a thick layer it would come through the veneer and squeeze out under the edges. I used bunch of rubber bands to apply evenish pressure on the veneer until the epoxy had dried. After this I sanded off the excess veneer that came over the edges.

For the assembly I made some brass rivets. I just cut pieces of brass wire and put them in a vise vertically. Then I hammered once end until it didn’t fit through the holes for the pins anymore. After the parts were assembled together, I cut the pins to wanted length and hammered the other end. It is much easier to assemble the knife if the pins have a little extra length.

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#restoring
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