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Making a *thrifty* medieval dress (15th century kirtle on the cheap)

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Making History

Using historical garment construction methods, thrifted fabric, and natural dyes, I make a medieval 15thcentury linen work dress!

The research I did for this project relied heavily on information that's been collected and generously shared online through various SCArelated websites. Links below.

00:00 Intro
1:20 Inspiration
2:07 History rant
4:50 "Gothic" art?
6:17 Methodology
7:04 Construction
12:29 Botanical Dye
14:30 Dressing up like manuscript art Historical Hair
16:30 PHOTO SHOOT
17:51 Closing thoughts ft prancing in dress

I'm an amateur sewist and amateur historian, so nothing presented here is an expert opinion. Kind feedback and corrections are welcome and appreciated.

Further Reading & Links
Diagrams of extant medieval garments
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc...
A pattern of the Moy bog gown by Kass Mcgann https://reconstructinghistory.com/pro...

Dye Notes
For anyone interested, here is my dye process.
Washed with normal detergent
Scoured with washing soda and a drop of dish soap for ~4 hrs
Mordanted with staghorn sumac leaves (fairly low %WOF, steeped for ~6 hours), rinsed and dried
Washed with detergent
Mordanted with alum
2 hr hot onion skin dye bath (skins of ~40 brown onions)
Rinsed and dried
Final wash with detergent after 3 days to sit

Notes, Corrections, Clarifications
Though the term is lifted from medieval texts, 'cotehardie' probably did not actually mean 'women's gown' in the middle ages. It is, however, a common term in use today to describe the outer Gothic Fitted Gown.
On white nationalism and medievalism: various forms of 'medievalism' have been employed by white nationalist movements (notably the Nazi party and presentday Identitarians) to construct ethnic origin myths and/or to construct a historical basis for a white/european sameness. These 'medievalisms' are often compatible with the myths of the middle ages that exist within the popular imagination (both are grounded in Romanticism), so I think it's important when we nerd about this history to not leave space for that garbage.
The Christian faith has indeed spread in a grassroots way in some times and places in its history. Christianity as the institution of the Catholic church is a different story, and that is more what I was referring to.

Images
In order of appearance. Public domain unless otherwise specified. License information below.

Thumbnail: Lady and unicorn from Platearius's Livre des Simples Medicines, illuminated by Robinet Testard. FR 12322, f.188v / Bibliothèque Nationale de France
Garment from Herjolfsnes. Photo by Lennart Larsen. CC BYSA 2.0 / National Museum of Denmark
The Hunt by Paolo Ucello / Ashmolean Museum
Detail (4 figures) from Way of Salvation by Andrea di Bonaluto
Horse from a fresco at Castello della Manta.
Kirtle from a Book of Hours. MS 677, f. 211r / Morgan Library
Buncha ladies in dresses, via Wikimedia
Blue kirtle from the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, Illuminated by Limbourg Brothers, ms.65, f.6v / Condé Museum
Christianity map via Wikimedia
The Baptism of Clovis by Master of St Giles / National Gallery of Art
Madonna and child by Giotto
Nun marginalia from a manuscript of Roman de la Rose (what one?), via Wikimedia
La Cattedrale, Milano by Giacomo Brogi, via Wikimedia
12thcentury sculpture at Chartes Cathedral, France: by Cancre, CC BYSA 2.5, via Wikimedia
Tebaide by Paolo Ucello / Galleria dell'Accademia, Firenze
Michaelangelo's David
Ferial psalter and book of hours, illustration by Bernat Martorell / Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat
Big Ben: by Paasikivi, CC BYSA 4.0, via Wikimedia
Sexy boatneck from The Book of the Queen, Selected Works of Christine de Pizan, 14101414, MS Harley 4431, f.129r / British Library
Herjolfsnes illustration by Herbert Norris (d. 1950), from Costume and Fashion, published 1924.
Veronica Gambara. Painting by Antonio da Correggio c. 1517–1520 / The Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg, Russia
Lucrezia Sommaria. Painting by Ridolfo Ghirlandaio c. 1510 / National Gallery of Art
Italian hair taping from a manuscript miniature: MS lat. 757 f. 380v / Bilbliothèque Nationale de France

CC BYSA 2.5 description: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...
CC BYSA 4.0 description: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...

Music
"Journey in the New World" by Twin Musicom CC BY 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: http://www.twinmusicom.org/song/258/j...
Artist: http://www.twinmusicom.org

"Anon Medieval Dance Tunes." Medley of medieval music performed by Paul ArdenTaylor, Elizabeth Wright & Malcolm Peake. Public Domain. Via Musopen

"Village Consort" by Kevin MacLeod
Link: https://filmmusic.io/song/4585villag...
License: https://filmmusic.io/standardlicense

"Horses and Trains" by Jesse Gallagher, Youtube music library

posted by Valenteje45