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I Hangboarded TWO TIMES A DAY For 90 Days

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Hannah Morris Bouldering

Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE Simply by Downloading the Crimpd App & Sign Up for a FREE account. Apple: https://l.linklyhq.com/l/1tVer // Android: https://l.linklyhq.com/l/1tVes.

In March, I set out to try Emil Abrahamsson's viral hangboard routine. The unique finger strength training method suggests using a hangboard to load your fingers twice a day, every day, for thirty days.

However, in the same day I planned to start, I suffered possibly my worst climbing injury yet. I tore my middle finger pulley while crimping on a small right hand hold.

In this video, I cover what happened over the next six months including how I used Emil's hangboard routine to help rehabilitate my finger and return to climbing at full strength.

After an initial period of complete rest to reduce the inflammation in my finger, I set out to try out Emil’s Crimpd protocol for the summer. I would weight my fingers as often as I could without it hurting or aggravating my healing pulley.

When I had a good structure, I would hangboard once in the morning and once in the evening, and my experience with this protocol spanned sessions in the van when we were on the road, and bouldering gyms worldwide.

If you are a climber looking to improve your finger strength, endurance or overall joint health, you might like to learn more about the unusual approach that Emil shared.

00:00 Introduction to Viral Hangboard Routine
00:20 Emil Abrahamsson Explains His Finger Strength Method
2:20 My A2 Pulley Injury
3:20 My Plan to Hangboard Every Day for Rehab
3:58 The Hangboard Routine
5:05 How to Download Crimpd and Win a Year's Free Crimpd+
5:30 How Much Weight to Hang
6:20 My Experience with the Protocol for Finger Strength and Recovery
9:40 Strength Testing My Fingers

Crimpd+ winner will be chosen on September 30th.

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posted by kimbalywm