Free shop furnace with just a little time and effort.

Carbon Monoxide detector with PPM readout Twin pack: https://amzn.to/37HOQJV
Super flexible natural gas hose w/coupler: https://amzn.to/3tXJQdT
Shop furnace all ready made and ready for install: https://amzn.to/37jV4PX'>https://amzn.to/37jV4PX
240v ELECTRIC shop heater equal to an electric dryer: https://amzn.to/31nzH0F


CARBON MONOXIDE any concern??????
This is no different than the millions of propane and kerosene shop heaters used daily worldwide. It's actually burns cleaner than those. All of these types don't produce enough CO to register on detectors when properly functioning. Of course a CO detector is always a great idea in case something does go catastrophically wrong. I have tested it for nearly a week running 5+ hours at a time without opening any doors(intentionally trying to confine any potential CO). Tested both on the floor where CO settles and at head height. The highest levels achieved were 13ppm directly in the path of the discharge heat port and 0ppm everywhere else in there shop. The 13ppm was only momentary and likely from initial fire up when the combustion isn't perfect for a split second. Repeated and prolonged tests directly in the discharge path show ZERO. For reference OSHA permits workers to be exposed to 50ppm for 8 hours straight and 200ppm for short intervals. CO detectors usually don't alarm unless they are exposed to 400ppm for over 5minutes straight. This is a SHOP/GARAGE heater and common sense should be used when using any heater that burns fuel or even electric.

COST to occasionally heat shop with different sources of energy for a winter season. Calculated for 25million BTU(1/4 the amount needed to heat an entire home for the winter in Northern USA)
ELECTRIC: $953 (rate $0.13kw)
DIESEL(fuel oil #2): $451 (rate $2.50gallon)
KEROSENE(fuel oil #1): $463 (rate $2.50gallon)
NATURAL GAS: $200 (rate $0.80therm)
PROPANE LPG: $753 (rate $2.75gallon)
WOOD PELLETS: $500 (rate $5 per 40#bag)
WOOD: FREE or $406 (rate$250 4*4*8cord) or $162 (rate$100 4*4*8cord)


THOUGHTS:
So to heat my shop with electric it would cost around $1000 vs the $200 for the Natural Gas. Currently I use Diesel which is cheaper and has more BTU per gallon energy vs Kerosene. I try to get diesel around $2/gallon and stock up, but it's going up. At that rate I could spend around $400$500 a winter. Cost for me to run black pipe to my garage was around $35 and took an hour or two of my time. The Flexible hose and coupler was around $40. The Natural gas setup and heater should pay for itself in a few months and if I find it's not big enough(20k BTU) to handle the insulated garage I will buy the Mr Heater 50k BTU https://amzn.to/37jV4PX'>https://amzn.to/37jV4PX .



ELECTRIC DRYERS(put out around 20k BTU at 5500watts 240volts)
Some designs are going to be very difficult. The ones with the heating element at the back of the drum are not going to be easy or near impossible(General Electric). The Kenmore/Whirlpool with the cube heating element on the back should be pretty straight forward and easy to work with. The easiest would by the ones with the heating element(like old Maytags) in the burn tube. However, electric heaters are pretty cheap and you can buy a 240V one equal to a dryer for around $100 https://amzn.to/2NB7f4a


WHICH BROKEN DRYER SHOULD YOU GRAB
Ones with broken timer controls! You don't really need the timer knob to work. You would just set it and it would go until you stopped it.
Noisy/banging drum! you are going to take that all out.
No spin but fan still blows: likely the belt is just broken and that's no problem for us
Heats but clothes take forever to dry. Likely just lint plugging everything up.

LEAVE BEHIND
No heat. This is very common with electric and it's just the coil 99% of the time. This is generally $2040 for the new part. GAS and it's likely the solenoid valves which cost around $2040.
BAD CPU computer board with error code: NO forget it, NOT WORTH IT.




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