This video is for any DIYer or plumber who’s looking to replace their water softener resin or media at home or on the job. The same procedure applies if you’re replacing the media or resin in any form of back washable filter whether it’s an iron filter, tannin filter, back washable carbon or even a multimedia filter. Today we’re going to replace the media in my water softener at home. I should mention that there is nothing wrong with my water softener, I’m just doing this today to show you how.
Before you begin you need know a couple of things:
1) Whatever water filtration equipment you’re replacing the media in you need to know what kind of media goes inside and how much. This is not the time to be replacing the media with a different media hoping for a different result. There may also be gravel at the bottom of that media tank, if that’s the case you will need to replace that too. Check it out before you start!
2) Every back washable type filter has free board which is why you need to know how much should be in there so as not to over fill it.
3) If you don’t have a suitable area to work inside, you’ll be removing the tank and doing the work outside so plan to have some one available to help carry the tank..
4) There will be spilled water and media so plan for a mess.
5) You’ll need a funnel and some painters tape.
6) If you’re replacing the media in an iron filter or if your water softener is being used as an iron filter you’ll likely need to replace the top basket and riser tube, make sure you have the replacement ready.
7) I suggest you have some iron out or something similar on hand to clean out any iron deposits inside the tank.
Now we are finally ready to start:
1) Start a manual regeneration to release the pressure inside the valve and put it into bypass. Shut off your water supply.
2) Disconnect the bypass, brine line and drain line from the water softener being careful to catch the spilled water if your drain line goes up. Advance the valve back into service position.
3) Drain the tank either by tipping it over, siphoning or by blowing out the water with a compressor.
4) If you have no where to work inside, take everything outside and find a spot where you can flush the media out without damaging too much.
5) Unscrew the valve from the top and remove it. Pull out the riser tube and either clean or plan to replace it.
6) You can try to pour the media out into a bag or onto a screen and put the media into buckets to get rid of it. Flush the remainder of the media out with a garden hose.
7) Put the riser tube into the tank and tape off the end so you don’t get any media inside it.
8) Once you know what goes back inside the tank, you can add the gravel, if it’s used and then the media itself.
9) Make sure the threads are clean, if necessary, you can wash them off. Remove the painters tape.
10) Put the valve back on being sure to put plumbers silicone grease on the o ring from the valve and on the end of the distributor.
11) Carry the tank back into the installation area. Connect to bypass, brine line and drain line. Plug in the water softener.
12) Put the water softener into back wash and open up the inlet of the bypass about ½ way and fill up the tank. You will hear the air and then the water running to the drain. After about 4 or 5 minutes you can open the valve all the way and check for leaks.
13) Run the water softener through a full regeneration.

Go here for your next video on water softeners for your home, cottage or cabin and I’ll see you there!    • Ultraviolet or UV System Basics  
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