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Tartan Guide - Tartans Plaid and Checks in Menswear

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What is tartan?

In the most general terms, tartan is a type of checked pattern. As a reminder, a check is a pattern of horizontal and vertical lines that create small squares and that can incorporate multiple colors though it doesn't necessarily have to. It can also be further enhanced by an overcheck in a different color.

More specifically, tartan is a pattern of intersecting horizontal and vertical bands in differing widths and colors and in its most traditional weave, would be considered a serge twill. Tartans alternating weave forms visible diagonal lines where different colors cross and can also give the appearance of creating new colors where these lines intersect. Tartans originated almost exclusively in woven wool but today, you can find them in a variety of other materials. And while the definition of a tartan was originally one that was made only from woven material, you can also find tartans today that are printed instead of woven. In traditional Scottish Gaelic, tartan is known as breacan which means multiple colors.

How to wear TARTAN:

With that in mind, let's dive into some of its more specific applications starting with probably the most widely seen application of tartan in clothing, shirts. In the realm of casual wear, especially in the cooler months, it's hard to beat a flannel buttonup in tartan or in a more general plaid pattern.

Now let's talk about tartan suits. While full suits in loud red and green tartans are available, these types of ensembles are really more at home in the world of high fashion than in traditional menswear. Instead, we suggest opting for a more subtle and largely monochromatic tartan.

Tartan sport coats can be a little bit more bright and bold than full tartan suits can. As with suits and sweaters though, it's best when wearing a tartan sport coat to make sure that the other elements of your outfit, including your trousers and shirt, are more subdued.

Also, tartan wears well as the pattern on an odd waistcoat or vest. Though if you're wearing one of these, it's best to pair it with a plain or very subtly patterned jacket so that the two patterns don't clash.

Tartan trousers worn without a matching jacket should generally follow the same principles we've just outlined for solo tartan sport coats. A subdued set paired with a muted jacket, either plain or faintly patterned, will be your most versatile option.

Let's move now to neckwear starting with tartan ties. You're probably beginning to sense a pattern here and I don't just mean the tartan pattern itself. A tartan necktie can be even more colorful than a jacket or trousers can be but the louder the tartan pattern on an accessory gets, the more muted your other garments should be to help balance things out.

Still within the realm of neckwear, a great way to introduce tartan into your outfits is through an accessory that's primarily designed to be functional. As such, a tartan scarf is perhaps the poster child for this principle.

For tartan pocket squares, the same rules generally apply as for neckwear. Tartan pocket squares either in wool or silk can add a pop of color to another more muted outfit and out of all the types of garments we've discussed today, you've got the greatest liberty to be really bold with a pocket square in tartan.

Regarding hats, flat caps are a traditional choice that remains stylish today.

As we've said in the past, brown is the most versatile shoe and boot color for outfits consisting of a combination of sport coats and odd trousers. You can get away with an informal shoe in black as well such as perhaps a horse bit loafer if the tartan patterned elements in your outfit are especially bold.

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