For GMC Canyon or Chevy Colorado, how to remove the shackle bushing for the leaf spring suspension. Showing a unique tool to speed up installation of the leaf spring bushing.
By the way, 4 jack stands are necessary to complete this project, plus the floor jack.
2 jack stands to hold the vehicle frame, in order to support the rear of the truck (the jack stands to be placed on the frame, in an area that is forward of where the leaf springs are attached (the front leaf spring attachment point).
2 jack stands to hold the axle shaft.
Good idea to place the tires underneath the truck for more safety. You will need to use the floor jack to raise the leaf spring, and press it against the underside of the axle shaft, in order to line up the male pin on the leaf spring, to the hole in the axle. This will then raise the axle shaft off of the jack stand on the side you are working on. The side you are not working on will still have the axle shaft resting on it's own jack stand. You attempt to line up the protruding centering nipple of the leaf spring, so it can fit into the 7/16'' hole in the Axle shaft metal mounting position.
Warning : I ordered in what GM says is the correct leaf spring for my truck, and I have since verified that GM still says it is in fact the correct spring for my truck...but
the hole in my truck frame is 7/16 inch from factory, to accept the nipple of the leaf spring.
the leaf spring nipple on the leaf springs I bought from GM were 9/16 inch. I swore under my breath for the next hour!
Just to warn you, to measure the size of the nipple on the new leaf springs, long before you start taking the truck apart! Most of the standard drill bit sets come with sizes up to a maximum of 1/2 '' drill bit.
MY truck is a 2005 GMC Canyon, extended cab, 3.5 liter, 5 cylinder, two wheel drive. The hole that is in my vehicle frame, to accept the nipple, is 7/16 inches
If the springs which GM has sent me is 9/16 inches, then some mechanic is going to need to have the correct size diameter of drill bit, before beginning the project.
Could make a template piece of wood, with a hole drilled through it, drilled with the correct size diameter of drill bit, which you require the steel frame drill hole to be. I would say MAXIMUM 1/32nd inch wider diameter than the nipple on your leaf springs. That tight alignment hole is important to making sure the trucks alignment is correct.
Some how, clamp the wood template piece (hole drilled in it), to the underside of the axle shaft, and while laying on your back on the ground, it's possible to drill upwards and make a larger drill hole. You can't simply turn the axle shaft over, in order to drill, because the differential is still attached to the axle. Also the hydraulic brake lines are still clamped to the axle shaft.
I found that the steel of the axle was very drillable, the only difficulty would be aligning the hole in the center of where the old original hole was. Sometimes it is best to start the drilling process into the steel, by drilling in reverse, temporarily, so the hole stays centered, and also so that the teeth of the drill bit don't bind and jam into the steel.
At the front attachment point of the leaf springs to the vehicle frame, tighten the front hanger bracket nut to 92 foot pounds.
At the rear attachment point of the leaf springs to the vehicle frame, tighten the rear shackle nut to 63 foot pounds (The shackle steel plate holds the shackle bushing, and the leaf spring eye bushing, so both of these nuts get torqued to 63 foot pounds).
Note: all these bushing nuts must be torqued when the vehicle is under load, otherwise you just wasted all your time buying and installing new leaf springs.
You do not have to put the truck tires on, and place the truck on the ground; instead, if you put a floor jack under the differential, which is attached to the axle shaft, you can then raise the axle shaft up and compress the leaf springs, and eventually raise the whole back end of the truck off of the ground. This pressure is the same as if the rear of the truck was actually sitting on the ground.
It's much easier to have clear access to torque the bushing nuts, when the tires are not in the way. You'll need to hold steady the 21mm bolt head with a wrench, and at the same time torque the 21mm nut. It's easiest to lay on your back, underneath the truck.
Shock absorbers/the lower bolt, torque is 118 foot pounds.
The small upper bolts of the shock absorbers, tighten them by hand so that you don't over tighten them. Just tight enough so that the compression holds the bolt, for bumpy offroad driving.
The shock absorber small upper bolts and nuts, are discontinued
Before removing the Shock Absorber, Precaution: I advise spraying rust penetrant on the top side of the bolt where it passes through the nut. If you can see rust there, you MUST wire brush off the rust before trying to remove the upper bolts from the nuts.
You can avoid using your reciprocating saw to cut off this nut.