If you're plagued with a dreaded parasitic power draw, then perhaps the issue may lie with your TIPM, or Totally Integrated Power Module. In Chrysler/Mopar vehicles, the (usually olderstyle mechanical) fuel pump relay is soldered directly on the TIPM main board and after the vehicle ages a bit, have a tendency to "stick on", even after the vehicle has shut down; this can allow your fuel pump to keep running and seemingly appear that your battery is just randomly being drained. I am, or perhaps was, having his problem on my 4th gen Ram. Will this fix the problem? Mak's TIPM Rebuilders may have my, or your, solution.

This video is targeted to individuals that cannot seem to solve this dreaded parasitic drain issue, nor can they reproduce the problem on demand. Maybe a rebuilt TIPM will be your solution.

!! UPDATE!! Part II. where I just may have solved this issue!    • Parasitic Draw Solved!?  RAM 2500HD B...  

Relevant Links:
https://tipmrebuilders.com/

Partial Transcription:

My RAM’s first parasitic draw. Yes, but there’s an upgrade for that.

This RAM has a problem. A very RAMdom problem.

It leaks. It leaks power and no one seems to know why.

Does it do it when I take it to the dealer for a week and half? No.

Does it do it when it’s time to go to an important appointment? Yes! Dead.

I mean not completely dead the interior lights, power locks, radio, and instrument cluster still works. But there’s just not enough little V’s to feed the starter.

So what do we do about this? Well, there’s three likely suspects.

The instrument cluster, however, I never see this staying on.

The radio, however, this doesn't seem to be waking up either. Or even momentarily flashing awake, as an electrical specialist from the dealer to watch out for.

And the TIPM. This is generally a suspect of Mopar vehicles because they’ve done something interesting. The fuel pump relay is actually located internally and soldered directly on the main board.

It’s a cold and windy day, so I’m going to go ahead and pull the truck into the garage. Let’s get started!

Now sometimes these fuel pump relays randomly get stuck on, causing the fuel pump to run even after the key is turned off, thus draining the battery.

I cannot definitively say this is the issue, however, it’s the least expensive item that I can try. And why not? This gives me a chance to upgrade.

So I bought this unit from MAKS. It’s an exact replacement. But why do I call it an upgrade? Well, for several reasons.

First of all, I would like to make it clear that I’m not sponsored by MAKS, or any company currently for that matter.

This is my own review and I spent my own money on this. MAKS doesn’t even know I’m doing this review.

From MAKS website, they say that each of these TIPMS are rebuilt to a quality better than new. How is this possible. Well, for one, they test and scrutinize everything. All the relays, the condition of the circuitry, and even bench test each unit before it’s completed.

But most interestingly, they replace the old mechanical fuel pump relays with their new solidstate relays. That’s right, no mechanical clicking on and off nothing to get stuck. Add they claim these will actually outlast the life of the vehicle.

So why not? The mechanical relay will go bad eventually. So let’s hedge our bets and replace it now.

Note that this doesn’t come with a lid unless you pay extra for one. We’re just going to reuse our old one.

And before we begin, let’s also make sure that all the fuses are in the right places. There’s a lot of variations in these trucks. So mine may have an accessory that the original did not. I’m also going to make sure that each of these relays and fuses are seated properly.

This one right here it did seat a little bit better, so it may have come loose during shipping. That’s why it’s important to go through all of these to make sure they’re seated properly.


This one was also not quite seated all the way. That’s alright, just a light press and we can feel it seat all the way to the bottom.

It’s less likely fuses are going to have any problems, but I’m going to each one anyways.

This fuse right here was another one that was not quite seated all the way. That’s alright, that’s perfectly normal. It’s now seated properly.

This one had the same problem right here.

And now we’re going to make sure that all the fused are the same between the two units. If this one has a fuse that this one does not, then I’m going to go ahead and place it from this box to this box. Easy enough.

Ok, so I carefully compared the two TIPMS and it does look like all the fuses are in the exact same places.

So let’s go ahead and remove the old one and get the new one in. First I’m going to take off the lid. Just like that. What I did is just push down on these two hinge tabs from the back side.

Next I’m going to go ahead and disconnect the negative battery terminal. I did...