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We've officially moved into new territory the coat! Or more specifically, the tail coat. While I've done plenty of 18th century and 20th century tailoring before, this is a novel era. So, I did my research thoroughly and I am GLAD that I did. The early Victorian era is a blip on the tailoring progression, with features unlike anything before or after. I know I can make a coat in about 4 solid days if I'm just sewing, but this took me about 10! I had to stop and start repeatedly to peruse the photos of originals and books. In the end I am very pleased with the final result just a few wrinkles around the waist that only appeared when wearing my heavier (temporary) trousers.

I am also impressed by how easy the ideal shape was acquired. I am obviously not the ideal figure of the era, so a bit of padding was added to accentuate the silhouette in some areas and hide others. By adding width to the chest area it creates a very effective illusion of both a narrower waist and a flatter chest. I can't wait to see how everything reads after I add the overcoat!

Everything for this garment was handsewn with the exception of the quilted panels in the lining. While there are some originals that appear to be hand stitched, most look like machine. As this element seems to have really come in during the 1840s, along with sewing machines in professional settings, it's not surprising that this was an early application of them. Eventually, the sewing machine would take over and coats would go from a 16.5 hour job to a 2.5 hour piece (Chicago Press and Tribune Aug 6, 1859).

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Construction Details Board:   / 19thcenturytailoring  

Scissors and Shears: https://www.whiteley.co.uk/

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00:00 Introduction
02:29 Coats & Jackets
04:03 Gonzos Coat
07:30 Construction Research
11:13 Fronts & Canvas
15:44 Backs & Skirt
19:53 Collar
23:25 Lining
28:28 Sleeves
31:25 Final