Thankful for some great waves in . Was tricky trying to come it of the barrel and actually broke my magic 8’11” Pearson gun…but had it fixed by Miguel (ding repair legend) and was back out there. Had fins set up as a quad which made for easy entry and lots of speed but maybe a thruster could’ve helped me knife/make the sections and pump up higher? EPS paddled great but maybe polyester could’ve sat on face better? Loved the paddle power and responsiveness of EPS. Better wave selection & positioning could have something to do with it too Super grateful to locals for letting this Gringo get a few waves. Mad respect to the local surf community for protesting unjust environmental issues there too. Follow @savethewavescoalition, @costaunidaoax, & @salvemos.colorada to help get local governments to repair their broken waste water system and protect this irreplaceable wave/ecosystem for generations to come. by @nnm.project, @mariafernandaphoto, & @cavaneves by #fuerzaregida

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#localsrule
#protecttheplacesyoulove
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#mainland
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